PARIS — As Paris Couture Week drew to a close, Fendi offered a mesmerizing blend of minimalist futurism and homage to the legendary Karl Lagerfeld.
Celebrities like Zendaya and Reese Witherspoon were on hand to witness artistic director Kim Jones deliver a memorable futurist collection — with frothing, organic fringing — that not only revered the past but also embraced a forward-thinking ethos.
Here are some highlights of Thursday’s fall couture displays:
Eschewing the exuberant exotics of Lagerfeld’s era with his exotic furs and feathers, Jones focused on the human form, ensuring that each garment accentuated rather than overshadowed the wearer.
“I was thinking about Karl Lagerfeld’s futurism,” Jones said, setting the tone for a collection where lightness, structure, and emotion intertwined seamlessly.
It began with a new box-like silhouette, with precise geometric patterns in silk gazars. Gowns with severe, minimalist hemlines were adorned with intricate beading, a sophisticated evolution from the brand’s fur-heavy past. A feather-like, all-over fringe appeared as a new kind of pelt.
Jones’s vision of Fendi’s future, he seemed to be saying, is rooted in delicate humanism — not animal pelts. The craftsmanship of Fendi’s ateliers shone through in every piece, showcasing a mastery of embroidery, tailoring, and fabric manipulation.
The integration of crystal beading in tulle sleeves that seamlessly merged in a trompe l’oeil with clutch bags. It was the collection’s zenith — and a feat of fashion genius.
Each creation in the collection spoke of a refined elegance, embodying a sense of lightness and fluidity. The garments, while echoing the grandeur of couture, were decidedly contemporary in their execution. Jones was respecting the Rome-based house’s codes while boldly stepping into a less opulent, more refined future.
In the fast-paced digital age, the fashion industry’s extravagant show invitations seem defiantly anachronistic.
Each season, fleets of couriers zigzag across Paris, hand-delivering invitations to guests at their homes or hotel rooms that are artistic, often painstakingly made marvels. This ritual holds a tinge of irony, as many of the shows these invites tout have ecological themes.
Fashion houses vie to outdo each other with invitations that are not just access to their shows but are vignettes of the runway themes themselves.
Consider Maison Margiela’s approach: A sophisticated white card encasing a diminutive Paris metro ticket, elegantly detailed with the specifics of the collection.
Then there’s Valentino’s whimsical nod to Willy Wonka — a glistening golden ticket — while Fendi sent out a giant box with pieces for a DIY Fendi-branded rose to assemble inside. Instructions were included.
Chanel presented a charming cinema ticket, simply inscribed with “BUTTON,” a prelude to the button-inspired fashion spectacle reserved for their VIP audience.
In the heart of Paris, Julie de Libran’s spring mixed sustainable luxury and effortless elegance. In an intimate setting, de Libran, who honed her craft at iconic houses like Sonia Rykiel and Louis Vuitton, showcased a line that whispered a simple confidence.
De Libran’s design philosophy often involves reworking classic styles with contemporary elements, and she has been recognized for sourcing many of her fabrics from vintage markets or from sustainable platforms like LVMH’s deadstock platform, Nona Source.
Taking center stage was a slinky, floor-sweeping gown cut on the bias, adorned with a cape — a drape effect that has become a signature.
Ostrich feather fringing graced hems throughout the collection, adding a diaphanous lift to pieces like a draped coffee shawl-jacket and simple, loosely tailored suits.
De Libran’s journey in fashion is marked by a seamless blend of high-end experience and a down-to-earth approach to design. Running her own boutique in Saint-Germain-des-Près, she embodies the role of both designer and curator, offering a hands-on experience that reflects an understanding of sustainable fashion.