Welcome to Who What Wear Travels, a series of curated guides to destinations the fashion set loves. Consider this your download on everything from the chicest stays to the most memorable meals to the perfect travel wardrobe, all vetted by stylish locals and well-traveled fashion folks.
I’ve lived in Southern California my entire life, so I know the region like the back of my hand. I’m brimming with SoCal suggestions, from the best sandwich shop in San Diego (Con Pane) to the most charming under-the-radar hotel in West Hollywood (The Charlie). Right now, I’m focusing my attention on Palm Springs, a desert enclave I’ve been visiting for nearly two decades. I first started coming to the city as a pit stop on my way to attend the professional tennis tournament BNP Paribas Open in nearby Indian Wells, but I soon realized that Palm Springs merited much more than a quick layover.
While tennis was the first thing that drew me to the area, many others associate the desert with Coachella since the famous festival lies just 40 minutes from downtown Palm Springs. If you’ve always made a beeline to the Empire Polo Club, you’re seriously missing out on Palm Springs’ exemplary mid-century architecture, delicious dining, fantastic vintage shopping, and amazing hotels.
To help me curate this Palm Springs travel guide, I tapped Kellie Brown, the content creator and interior designer behind Deeply Madly Modern. After moving from New York City to Los Angeles, she bought a vacation home in Palm Springs and ended up loving it so much she decided to live there full-time. In addition to sharing some of her favorite spots, Brown also offered some advice for your packing list: “Caftans, sunscreen, a large hat, sunglasses with no metal (because don’t want to burn your nose!), sneakers for a sunset bike ride, a good book for poolside lounging, and a Polaroid camera because she’s a cute little town and you’ll want fridge pics!”
(Image credit: Korakia Pensione; Slim Aarons/Getty Images; The Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands; Market Market)
Before I delve into specific recommendations, I want to reflect on the city’s history. One of my favorite things about Palm Springs is its iconic connection with Hollywood. Beginning in the 1920s and 1930s, the desert oasis became a fashionable getaway for movie stars seeking relaxation away from the spotlight. Film studios required actors to remain within two hours of Hollywood in case they were called back for reshoots, so Palm Springs became the perfect retreat. By the 1940s and 1950s, the city had blossomed into a glamorous playground for stars like Frank Sinatra, Marilyn Monroe, and Elvis Presley, who not only vacationed there but also owned homes.
This era saw the rise of iconic mid-century modern architecture, as many celebrities commissioned stylish homes that matched the area’s desert landscape and luxurious vibe. The Rat Pack often held parties and performed in local venues, embedding Palm Springs into the lore of classic Hollywood culture. As time went on, the city remained a beloved spot for Hollywood’s elite, especially during major events like the Palm Springs International Film Festival.
Palm Springs has also become a popular filming location. Don’t Worry Darling, starring Florence Pugh and Harry Styles, is perhaps the most memorable recent movie set there. All in all, this lasting relationship between Hollywood and Palm Springs has helped shape the city’s identity as a stylish spot.
Where to Stay
I’ve never been one to gravitate toward sprawling mega resorts, instead favoring more intimate boutique hotels. If this sounds like you, allow me to introduce you to Korakia Pensione. It’s one of the most charming and unique hotels I’ve ever stayed at. I spent a few nights in the Bedouin Suite, which came complete with a private patio, wood-burning fireplace, kitchen, and, to my surprise, a huge stone tub with a rain shower.
The hotel combines two special properties, both with storied pasts. On one side of the street is a series of Moroccan-inspired villas, suites, and rooms built by painter Gordon Coutts in the 1920s to mimic his life in Tangier. The villas on the other side of the street are more Mediterranean in style and were owned by silent-screen star J. Carrol Naish. I encourage you to scroll through the photos and descriptions of each room before choosing your favorite, as they’re all unique.
(Image credit: Courtesy of The Parker)
“The Parker is quintessential Palm Springs luxury,” Brown told Who What Wear. “From the moment you enter, you are transported. It’s one of those special properties where you not only envision yourself having a good time; you can imagine staying forever. It’s the perfect mix of style, sophistication, and comfort. It’s chic and playful. The grounds are incredible, and the food is really good.”
(Image credit: Courtesy of Trixie Motel)
Because of its kitschy, colorful, themed rooms, the Trixie Motel is kind of like Palm Springs’ version of the Madonna Inn in San Luis Obispo (but much newer and smaller). Each of the seven rooms and suites at the Trixie Motel has a distinct theme. Clockwise from top left, the above images depict the bee-inspired Honeymoon Suite, the heart-centric Queen of Hearts Room (right), and the ’60s-themed Flower Power Suite. It’s the perfect spot for a bachelorette trip if you ask me.
What to Do
(Image credit: Courtesy of Palm Springs Art Museum)
Sure, you can drive by some cool mid-century homes on your own, but The Modern Tour actually lets you go inside some of the city’s architectural gems. Pictured above, one of the most striking properties is the Frey House II (which I should note is only offered on select tours, must be reserved at least 48 hours in advance, and sells out quickly). The tour is operated in conjunction with The Palm Springs Art Museum, which is another “not-to-be-missed” destination according to Brown. “It’s filled with enviable contemporary art and the perfect place to wander around on super-hot days,” she told us. “There’s a street fair on Thursdays just outside, and it’s an absolute must.”
(Image credit: Courtesy of he Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands)
Technically, Sunnylands is located in Rancho Mirage, but it’s a mere 15-minute drive from Palm Springs. Upon completion in 1966, one of this estate’s first guests was President Dwight D. Eisenhower, which should tell you a lot about the caliber of visitors that were still to come. Over the years, the property has also welcomed Queen Elizabeth II, President Barack Obama, King Abdullah II of Jordan, and a slew of other diplomats, civil rights leaders, and politicians from around the world. You can tour the 15-acre gardens for free, but you do need to purchase a guided tour if you want to see inside the 25,000-square-foot historic home.
(Image credit: Courtesy of Palm Springs Aerial Tramway)
The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway ascends approximately 6000 feet in just 10 minutes. At the top, there are observation decks, two restaurants, a gift shop, and over 50 miles of hiking trails. Be warned: The temperature at the top is usually 30 to 40ºF cooler than the desert floor and sometimes has snow between December and April, so you’ll want to bring layers. The views on the tram and at the top are truly hard to beat.
Where to Shop
When I browsed the vintage selection at Mitchell’s in January, I was pleased to find an impressive mix of luxury designers such as Valentino, Pucci, Chanel, Lanvin, Oscar de la Renta, Givenchy, and others. The store stocks vintage pieces from the 1960s to the early 2000s as well as current designer items. I particularly loved the dresses, but the store also sells menswear, jewelry, accessories, and shoes.
(Image credit: Courtesy of Market Market)
Market Market takes up 40,000 square feet of the famed South Palm Canyon Drive. You’ll find a mix of vintage clothes, accessories, home décor, furniture, and art, including repurposed and one-of-a-kind gems. The store also houses the Palm Springs Bottle Shop, selling beer, wine, spirits, snacks, and nonalcoholic beverages. Talk about a one-stop shop!
There’s a lot to love about the Mojave Flea Trading Post, which touts itself as “both a shopping destination and a cultural hub.” There’s a great selection of handmade goods by local artisans from the Coachella Valley, including ceramics, art prints, and hand-poured candles. You can also shop vintage and repurposed clothes for both men and women. When I visited, I was tempted to take home one of the colorful scarves pictured above.
Where to Dine
(Image credit: Courtesy of The Pantry/Jonny Valiant)
Housed inside the Holiday House hotel, The Pantry is a good bet for weekend brunch, but it’s also open for lunch Monday through Friday and for dinner nightly. You can count me in for those lemon ricotta pancakes topped with blueberries, pictured above.
(Image credit: Courtesy of Tailor Shop)
Dimly lit cocktail bar Tailor Shop is another one of my favorites. Original cocktails include Breath in the Afternoon, a mix of absinthe, champagne, lemon, orange, and sugar, as well as Lace Made, which combines Astral tequila, Campari, Ancho Reyes Verde liqueur made with green fire-roasted poblano chiles, grapefruit, lime, and simple syrup.
(Image credit: Courtesy of Melvyn’s)
To get a taste of Old Hollywood in Palm Springs, look no further than Melvyn’s, which used to be patronized by the likes of Marilyn Monroe, Marlon Brando, and Frank Sinatra. Opened in 1975, Melvyn’s is known for its martinis and nightly live music. You can either saddle up to the bar or sit down for dinner, where the menu includes elevated takes on hearty staples like mac and cheese, chicken pot pies, and burgers.